PhotoWalkPro

Yesterday’s list of lenses was enough to make even the strongest bank account cry.  Quality lenses, new out of the box, can set you back more than you just paid for your camera.  So here are a couple of things to consider.

When buying a lens, think of it as a long term investment.  I have been shooting Nikon for the better part of two decades and the lenses I used 20 years ago still work on the newest of Nikon bodies.  That’s actually true of Nikon lenses that are 30 and 40 years old (there is some loss of functionality but they will still work).  Even Canon has stayed with their lens mount ever since they made the jump to the EOS system back in 1989, almost twenty years ago.  So you can see that when you buy a lens, it will probably outlast your camera body by many years, especially since new camera bodies come out almost every 18 months.  The one thing to consider along with the mount is the commitment you will make to the brand of camera you buy.  If you have invested in 4 or 5 lenses, you probably aren’t going to make the jump from, say, Canon to Pentax because you would have to start buying lenses all over again.

But here is something else to consider, nothing says that you have to buy a new lens.  There are those out there that do want to jump ship or move up to a new lens and the easiest way to do that is to sell their old gear.  When Nikon came out with the D3, there were quite a few heavy Canon shooters that actually dumped their gear so they could make the move to the high ISO benefits of the D3.  They didn’t just stick that old gear in the closet, they sold it.  So why not take advantage of their change of heart by adding to your lens collection.  Here is an example of a good bargain I found on eBay as compared to the brand new counterpart.

Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 VR    New – $1789, Used on eBay – $1395

If you can live without the VR, you can pick up the slightly older 80-200mm f/2.8 for around $500 on eBay.  Not a bad way to go, especially if you plan on shooting with a tripod where the VR wouldn’t even come into play.

If buying items on eBay makes you a little nervous, you might consider going the consignment route.  Wildlife photographer, Laurie Excell, runs a consignment business called EquipmentLady.com.  Laurie helps photographers sell their gear through her site and is a much safer bet than an unknown entity on eBay (she does sell through an eBay store but you know who you are dealing with up front).  Check this out, right now on her site, she is listing a Canon 5D that is currently going for $1600 and if you are a Nikon shooter that has always dreamed of owning that really long 600mm lens, then today is your lucky day.  Right now there is a 600mm f/5.6 lens for sale in her store for the incredibly low price of $811.  Ok, these are auctions but considering you can’t even buy this lens new anymore so you would have to settle for the $9000 600mm f/4, anything under $4000 is a real bargain.  There are also local camera stores that sell equipment on consignment so make sure you check around for a local option.

Finally, if you really have your heart set on peeling away the plastic on a brand new lens, consider going with one of the third-part lens manufacturers.  Companies like Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina have been making some quality lenses for years and have dedicated legions of fans using their stuff.  To use my previous comparison of the new Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 at $1789, a comparable lens from Sigma, the 70-200mm f/2.8, sells for $750 (this lens is discontinued but there are still new ones to be had).  Not a bad deal for a really nice lens.

So the bottom line is this, photography is expensive, but it doesn’t have to break your bank.  Do some research and shop the alternatives and chances are that you will find there are bargains to be had without compromising quality.  Do your research before you buy and remember that you’ll probably own your lenses longer than your next car.

* Finally, a few words to the wise -

When shopping on eBay, always opt for paying with your credit card so that you are covered by their built-in protections against fraud.  Also, buying “used” generally means that you don’t get a warranty.  It’s the price you pay for paying half the price.  Also, if you buy a “new” lens from an eBay retailer, ensure that you are getting a new lens covered by a warranty that is applicable for where you live.  eBay can be a dumping ground for Grey Market so email the seller, get their confirmation that it has the proper warranty, and then pay with your credit card so you can dispute the purchase if necessary. Caveat Emptor!

I received an excellent question from one of my readers who asked what type of camera I use for shooting landscapes and flowers and the like.  I think it’s an excellent question because most folks associate great images with the camera used. The reality is that there are two factors that have more impact on your final image than which camera you shot it with.  The camera really is only going to help you out with one factor in landscapes and that is with your resolution.  Ok, that’s really a simplification of things, but in general, fast frames per second and low noise at high ISO really aren’t factors (all of you camera-holics out there may now begin bashing me in the comment section).  If you are shooting in RAW, then it doesn’t really even matter how good the camera white balance settings are since you will adjust that in software after the shot.

No, the biggest factors for shooting landscapes and flowers or any still-life type subject are the same as they have been for decades and they are; use a high quality lens, and use a solid tripod.  Truth be told, some of the best landscapes I have ever seen have come from 6 megapixel cameras.

Lenses -

First of all I always like to use fast glass because it just gives you more exposure options.  Something in the area of f/2.8 or larger would be nice.  The other advantage to a large aperture is the ability to get more selective depth of field to really isolate a subject.  If, for instance, you are going to shoot some flowers out in the wild, you may not want to include the background (unless it plays a part in your composition).  The best way to really isolate your subject is to use a wide open aperture to get that nice narrow depth of field and render your background blurry.

If you go the route of a zoom lens, you should still try and get that highest quality you can.  You also want a lens that will maintain the aperture throughout the entire zoom range.  This will also add to the expense of the lens but it is very much worth it.  As an example, a Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 lens will set you back around $1700 where as the 24-85mm f/2.8-4.0 lens is only $565.  There are other factors that increase the cost of the lens including the type of glass, the coatings on the glass, the number of elements, etc.  The general rule of thumb is that the quality of a lens is directly proportional to its cost.  This isn’t always the case but it’s not far from the truth.

While we are talking about lenses, consideration should also be given to what range of lenses you will need for the shooting that you will do.  Here are my choices of lens to cover a pretty wide shooting range:

• A very wide lens, possibly a zoom like the 12-24mm – This is almost a necessity when shooting landscapes.
• A wide to intermediate zoom like the 24-70mm f/2.8 – Of course we also need to pay our mortgages so something like the 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6 would also work well.
• A macro lens is indispensable when shooting close-up subjects like flowers – I prefer prime macro lenses such as the 60mm or the 105mm.  They are easier to use than a tele-zoom with macro but the zoom macro will still get the job done.  Less expensive options include close-up filters and or extension tubes.  Either of these will convert your regular lens into a macro/close-up lens.
• A telephoto or tele-zoom like the 70-200 f/2.8 – Sometimes you just need to reach out and get those far away subjects and nothing does the job like a good tele-zoom.  Once again, having that wide f/2.8 aperture can really help to isolate your subjects by blurring the foreground and background in your image.  Remember that good glass is expensive for a reason.  To maximize your options, consider buying a tele-extender like a 2X.  You will lose a stop or more but double the reach of your lens.
• Super Telephoto lenses are the last item on the list but only to be considered if you are a doctor, lawyer, or Bill Gates.  Seriously though, super tele lenses are the only way to go if you want to shoot wildlife like Moose Peterson or Laurie Excell but they don’t come cheap.  A 400mm f/2.8 lens will set you back around $9000 and it just goes up from there.

Tripods -

The other piece of equipment that is essential to creating beautiful landscapes is a good tripod.  Make sure that it is large enough to handle the weight of your camera and lens.  There are numerous manufacturers and it would be silly for me to even try and recommend one but I can tell you what I look for when considering a tripod.

• Light weight – to carry, not in its load capacity.  Try some of the really great new carbon fiber models.
• Good height – I am pretty tall so I want a tripod that doesn’t make me crouch all the time to use it.  But try and get one that is tall enough without extending the center column up.  You should always try and shoot with the camera as close the the tripod legs as possible.
• Legs that lock securely but don’t require a pipe wrench to loosen.
• Versatility – I like a tall tripod but sometimes you need to shoot low to the ground.  There are several that will let you extend the legs out at very wide angles to get your camera close to the ground.  If you want to shoot flowers, you have to be down on their level.
• A removable tripod head, or better yet, none at all.  You should choose the head for your tripod separately from the legs.  Most pan heads that come on tripods aren’t that great and should be replaced.  I prefer ball heads for their versatility but you should choose something that feels secure and comfortable.  Also, consider something with a quick-release so that you can go from hand-holding to tripod quickly.

So there are my recommendations for equipment for landscape and flora photography.  Whether you choose to use a Canon 30D or 40D or 1Ds Mark II, or a Nikon D3, or D100, or D40, it all comes back to the same thing.  Buy yourself a couple of nice lenses because it doesn’t matter which camera your image ends up in if the lens isn’t worth a damn.

Also, you might be the strongest guy in the world and have great IS or VR lenses but if you want the ultimate in sharp images, get yourself a sturdy tripod.  Nothing beats the stability of having a solid tripod under that really nice glass you just bought.

*As a little side-note, go out to your local professional camera store and try out the latest and greatest lenses.  You really need to see them and feel them in your hands to appreciate them.  Then buy them from your local guy.  A lot of times they will match the major online vendor prices and you will be supporting a resource that you can return to time and time again.

Carrying my camera gear can be challenging, especially when I’m traveling on a plane.  I don’t like to check my camera gear for any reason which means that if I want to take it, it has to be in a carry-on sized case.  I also don’t like carrying more than one carry-on which means that all of my other travel necessities (laptop, batteries, mp3 player, powercords, etc.) must also fit in the same bag.  I also need a bag that I can carry without tying up my hands or falling off my shoulder.  It would also helps if the bag doesn’t look like a camera bag.  Let’s face it, camera bags advertise big bucks to anyone looking for a quick score so anything that blends in is a definite plus.  I don’t know if I will ever find the “perfect” bag but I might have come pretty close with the Lowepro Fastpack 250 camera backpack.

A few weeks ago I got my hands on the new Fastpack 250, just in time for me to put it through a couple of travel challenges.  The first, to Orlando where I would be attending the Photoshop World Conference, and then to Dubai, where I would really put the bag to the test.  As I said earlier, my two big requirements for a travel bag are that it holds my camera and lenses but also that it has a laptop pocket.  One thing I didn’t mention but it is very important is that it also needs to fit under the seat in front of me.  I hate having to get up and retreive my laptop from the overhead compartment during a flight (I’m a window seat guy), so storing it under the seat makes my life a little better.  So let’s look at the bag and see how it held up in short and long distance travel.

First let’s talk about the pack itself to see how it is configured.  The bag can be divided into 3 main compartments: the main compartment for camera storage, the secondary top compartment for accessories, and the laptop compartment.

The Camera Compartment – This is really where the bag shines.  Lowepro built on the success of their Sling Bags and their side entry compartment when they designed this pack.  The main camera area is accessed from a side entry flap that allows you to slide your camera out for quick shooting, even while wearing the pack.  The inner dividers are completely configurable thanks to their velcro edges and allow you to customize your camera space.  I had a D300 with the 70-200 f/2.8 lens loaded in the main camera section and it fit across the width of the bag very comfortably.  The one thing I found was that it was a little easier to get the camera in and out by loading the camera in upside down, that is, prism facing the back of the pack.  It didn’t have any real bearing on the way the bag worked, it just seemed to fit better that way.  With the 70-200 and the camera taking up the entire middle section of the camera compartment, I was left with four smaller lens pockets, two on each side of the middle compartment.  To access these sections, you need to open the security flap which then allows complete access to the main camera compartment.  Unlike a regular camera bag, you’ll have to take the bag off your shoulders to access this part but it never really seemed to be to much of a problem.  

The use of the larger 70-200 did make things a little more cramped and your ability to use really big glass might be just a little hindered depending on how you configure things but overall I was very pleased with the amount of glass I could stick in here.

The Accessory Compartment – The upper part of the backpack is basically a large open compartment with two internal pockets with flap closures, a small mesh pocket, and two pen pockets.  The rest of the space is open and quite roomy.  This is where I placed my extra camera body, power supply for the laptop, extra laptop batteries, Epson P-5000, portable hard drive, and various other goodies.

Laptop Compartment – The final storage compartment is a side-loading laptop storage sleeve with room enough for a 15.4″ laptop.  This is in the back of the pack and rests against your back while the pack is worn.  Not to worry though as it is quite well padded and protected my laptop from banging and bumping my way through the airport, on the plane, and across the desert when necessary.  I don’t normally carry the laptop in the bag when I’m out shooting if I can avoid it just because I like to eliminate as much weight as possible.  It did do an excellent job carrying the laptop safely during transport.

Other Features – There are some other small pockets available for storing smaller items that are tucked away around the bag.  Thee is a mesh pocket on the side of the bag that will hold a water bottle, lens, or flash although it is not padded (I wold stick to a water bottle for this one).  The top front cover of the pack has a flat side-entry pocket that is great for maps or filters or other such items.  Once again, this is not a padded pocket so only flat, durable items in here.  Underneath the security flap is a nice wide pocket with two mesh pockets inside.  I used this for my memory card vaults, Whi-Bal card, and a few other items.  The back of the pack is extremely well padded and was quite comfortable when worn as were the shoulder straps.  All of the straps are adjustable and there is a waist belt with hip pads to ensure that the pack is held in place during longer hikes.  The left shoulder strap has a sewn-in cell phone pocket and there is a strap on the right shoulder strap that accepts the Lowepro accessory SlipLock Pouches.  There are even two camera memory card pockets in the side entry flap for easy retrieval during shooting.

What I like – This is a great bag and really did surprise me with the amount of gear I could stick in it (for a complete list of what I was able to carry in the bag, check out last Friday’s post).  There are more pockets than my older bag which let me be a bit more organized.

The side-loading camera access was great!  I love not having to open up the entire bag to get to my camera.  I had to keep the 70-200 on the camera body to make everything fit but this was usually the lens that I would grab first so it really didn’t make too much of a difference for me. 

The pack is small enough to fit under an airline seat (one of my big requirements) and held my laptop firmly and safely in place when I wasn’t using it.  There is a small flat pocket in the laptop section that is closed with velcro but I couldn’t really tell what it’s purpose might be.  At first glance I thought it was a removable padding for the pack but it only opened about half the length up the compartment so I am still working on a purpose for it.

The configurable camera compartment held all of my gear well.  I had room for four smaller lenses along with the big 70-200 and camera body.  The removable compartment walls are a blessing when customizing the bag for your own gear.

What I would change – Don’t get me wrong, this is a kick-butt backpack but there’s always room for improvement.  Having just talked about the lens compartments, I would try and make those just a little larger.  If I was going to carry some bigger glass like the new Nikkor 14-24 f/2.8, I would really have to do some squeezing and rearranging to make it fit.  That being said, Lowepro does make a Fastpack 350 that fits a 17″ backpack and might actually accommodate bigger glass so I’ll have to check that out for certain.

The shoulder straps are great but the position of the SlipLock strap was a little high and placed my pouch a little too close to my face.  A little lower placement would be nice.  I would also like some D-Rings on the bag to clip stuff to the outside.  This is just a personal thing but I am always clipping on carabiners to my bags so i can attach extra water bottles and other stuff.  D-rings just make this a little easier.  Also, the cell phone pocket is a little small for anything other than a really slim phone.  You would never get an iPhone or my Blackberry in there.  It’s a great idea but it needs to be just a little larger to make it work for todays multi-purpose phones. 

As long as I’m making up my wish list, more exterior pockets would be handy.  There are some nice little pockets on the inside of the bag but really only one outside accessible pocket on the front and it is really for flat items.  Just a couple of pouch pockets here and there for things like MP3 players and earphones, or a place to stash a few granola bars without digging in the main compartment would really take this bag over the edge. 

To make my wish list complete, some sort of tripod carry option would really be nice.  Just some way of attaching a small travelers tripod to either the front or the side would be handy.  

Of course there will never really be a perfect bag because my needs are always changing depending on what I am setting out to do.  As I go through new gear and accessories, my needs in a gear bag will continue to change.  The great thing about the Fastpack 250 is that it is so configurable and roomy that I know that at least for my travel photography, I have a bag that is up to my standards and helps me get the most bang for my buck.

Speaking of bucks, the best part about this great backpack is the price.  Currently you can buy this great pack for under $90 at Amazon.  Click Fastpack for more info.  My pack is red but it’s also available in blue and black.  To find out more about Lowepro and all of their great camera carrying solutions, click here.

This past weekend I had a chance to try out a new product that I found at PMA. I had been looking for a gear bag that would be the perfect solution for photowalks and I think I found it in the Boda Dry Lens Bag. Boda makes two different size lens bags, the large and the small. I chose the large bag because I wanted something that could handle enough equipment for a day shoot that would still accommodate my 70-200 f/2.8 VR lens. This is a fairly sizable lens and it usually requires a bigger bag. I also wanted something that would carry a couple of smaller zooms and a along with a few accessories. The Boda Dry Lens Bag met all of these requirements and a few more that I didn’t realize I needed until I had them. Read the rest of this entry »

If you read my Friday post you saw that I was fortunate enough to score some extremely sweet tickets to the Wizards game.  I also ended the post by saying that if I didn’t get any good shots, I would “blame it on my equipment and bad lighting”.  Well, I was pretty much on the mark with this one.  I had a lot to do before heading off to the game so I grabbed the camera that had an 18-70mm DX lens on it and threw it in the car along with the 200mm f/2 and a 1.4 extender.  After parking the car, me and my buddy headed over to the ESPNZone for a bite to eat before tip-off.  While standing at a crosswalk, I switched out lenses, putting the 200 on the D2X body.  The sun was bouncing off the buildings down the street so I thought I would fire a quick pic before getting to the ESPNZone door. Much to my surprise, the camera fired but I didn’t have any image on the LCD.  Not only that, but the camera was reading f/0.  I had never seen that one before.  I clicked a few more just to make sure it wasn’t me.  I changed the mode to Manual and tried changing the aperture but to no avail.  After making a frantic phone-call for some technical advice, I tried a few remedies, like pulling the battery but nothing seemed to help.  I ended up sticking the 200 back in the car and ended up shooting with the 18-70 at f/4.5, at ISO 800, with the high-speed crop.  So can I tell you how much my pictures suck?  Pretty lame if I do say so myself.  So, what are my lessons learned?  The big numero uno, you have to check your gear before you leave, even if it’s to only take one quick image.  Second, take a back-up solution that will give you reasonable results.  I was going to take the 70-200 f/2.8 but didn’t want to take two big lenses when in fact I should have just taken my whole camera bag of goodies.  I wasn’t a very good Boyscout.

So here are a few average shots.  I had to work them pretty hard in Photoshop just to make them lame.  On the plus side, the Wizards kicked some Grizzly butt so it wasn’t a total loss.