When Should You White Balance?

You probably know that white balancing is extremely important for reproducing accurate colors in your photographs.  The question is, when exactly is the best time to set your white balance.  Most every digital camera sold has some ability to change the white balance depending on the type of light that you are shooting in (daylight, cloudy, shady, flash, fluorescent, and tungston).

Most cameras also have a setting whereby the camera will pick what it believes is the most appropriate color balance for the light, also referred to as Auto White Balance.  The big problem with built-in white balance settings is that they are rigid and don’t take into account the subtle changes in color temperature that can affect the colorcast in an image.  Things like atmospheric conditions (clouds, smog) and reflective and translucent surfaces all have an influence on the color temperature.  Then add a little mixed lighting like fluorescent lights and daylight from a window and you have a color temperature that no pre-set balance will be able to handle.  Even the auto setting will have trouble with scenes like this.  Auto settings can also be influenced by colors of objects in the image so once again, not the best choice.  This is why many advanced dslr cameras now have custom white balance settings to assist you in getting the best possible color rendition in your images.

Some cameras make setting the custom white balance a snap.  All you have to do is set it up in the menu and then point your camera at a white surface and take a picture.  All that is left is to select the custom white balance setting and start shooting.  Other similar methods use a disc that is placed over the lens when setting up a custom balance.  The disc takes all the light in the scene and averages it into its basic color component and records a proper setting for shooting in that particular lighting environment.

These are generally good methods of setting a proper white balance but they are ones that I reserve for shooting in JPEG or TIFF modes.  The reason for this is that the white balance that you select at time of shooting is baked into the file and, while it can be changed later in post-processing, it just seems to be best to get it right during capture when all of the other image processing is taking place.

If you shoot RAW, I would advise a different method of setting a white balance.  My preferred method is to shoot with the camera set to Auto-WB, shoot a white balance card, and then correct the color in post processing.  I use a Whi-Bal card because it is small and has a nice quick release lanyard so it’s always handy.

The card is placed in the scene, ensuring that it is being lit by the same light source as my subject.  Then I take a quick picture and then get on with my shooting.  If I change to a different location, such as a shady spot, I grab another quick image of the card so that I can keep control over any colorcasts.  Once I bring the image into Lightroom or Camera Raw, I use the White Balance Selector tool to click on the card and BAM, instant white balance correction.  The other thing I like about my little Whi-Bal is that it has two different greycards, one that is neutral and one that renders a slightly warmer balance.  You can also buy white balance cards that are specifically made for portraiture. Once the white balance is corrected, the setting can be applied to all the other images in the series with equally accurate results.

The one thing that you want to do no matter which method you choose is to constantly update your WB as you change settings, lighting setups, or time of day.  A passing cloud can make a huge shift in your white balance, which you will have to fight with later if you don’t deal with it at time of capture.  To find a whole selection of custom white balance and white card solutions, check out this list at B&H Photo.

Comments

  1. Jeff,
    I would have thought it would be better to leave the camera in a fixed WB mode (like sunlight) if shooting raw? That way you can have one shot of the WB card for a series of photos in the same light and automatically sync them all? Otherwise the camera might be “tricked” into changing it’s WB (as it is in Auto). Is that right?
    Mark

    • Actually, it doesn’t really what WB you use because it can be changed at the time of processing. The only thing it really affects is how the image looks on the back of the lcd screen, which can be helpfult at times. If you are using a device such as a white balance card, you will be assigning a corrected white balance in your post processing. If you do use an over-the-lens type of white balance device or you have created one in camera by recording a white card, then you would leave your white balance set to “As Shot” when you are processing your images.

  2. Personally, I live and die by my ColorChecker Passport, made by X-Rite. It’s always the first capture that I take when I begin a shoot and take subsequent shots of it whenever the major indicative light source changes (or if I change my lens). The added benefit of the Passport is that, in addition to correcting White Balance, it has a great Lightroom plugin that will create a DNG Profile to correct color, all from the same shot. I would strongly recommend the ColorChecker Passport to anyone who is considering upping their game to ensure proper WB/Color.

    Overall, taking some sort of measure to ensure accurate/correct WB and Color calibration is very important and it’s great to see such an article bring it to light, so to speak.

  3. I would say don’t worry about white balancing at all at time of capture. Take one shot of a grey card or spydercube in the lighting of your subject so you have a reference for the correct whitebalance in post then just shoot away and repeat when you change lighting situations… Don’t waste your time changing the white balance so your LCD looks nice when you could be missing some great shots – especially at weddings…

    Lightroom makes it really easy to white balance – go to the white balance box, grab the dropper, click on your grey card, then sync the white balance of that all the photos from that scene to the white balance of the corrected one… it takes just a few secs in post as compared to quite a bit more time and wasted shots during the shoot…

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  5. marieboyer says:

    Nice to see a pro talk about the Whibal card for white balance. Excellent little device! http://j.mp/6jLd0F

  6. Blogging feed says:

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  7. Nice to see a pro talk about the Whibal card for white balance. Excellent little device! http://j.mp/6jLd0F (via @marieboyer)

  8. Jeff Revell says:

    Is it better to create a custom white balance or do it in post? Here's my take on it… http://bit.ly/4tnVZQ #photog

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  10. Kate Ingram says:

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