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I’m still under the weather, which is why I didn’t get a chance to update the blog yesterday but I wanted to go ahead and put up this video that I made this past weekend on dodging and burning.  The video shows a couple of different methods I use to non-destructively darken and lighten portions of my image.  I prefer to use these methods over the dodge and burn tool so that I can go back and tweak my adjustments later if need be and not have to worry about undoing anything else I have done.  I have written about one of these methods in a previous post and I received several requests to actually show how it is done in a video so here you have it.

Now it’s time for me to down some Nyquil and try and get some rest.  I hope you have a sniffle-free Thursday!

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  1. Anatomy of a Lightroom Beta 2 Image Correction
  2. HDR Video Tutorial – Pt. 1
  3. The 7-Point System in Action
  4. Happy Birthday Photoshop!
9 Responses to “Non-Destructive Dodging & Burning”
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  1. Alltop says:

    Non-Destructive Dodging & Burning http://bit.ly/60dgRx Photography.alltop

  2. Alex Araujo says:

    Video: Non-Destructive Dodging & Burning – http://bit.ly/4Q1Cga

  3. Heycameraman says:

    Non-Destructive Dodging & Burning http://bit.ly/7HG6Cc

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Comments
  1. Craig Lee says:

    Good tips. Thanks. I will try them out on my next batch of photos.

  2. Jeff,
    In your first demonstrated technique, what is the advantage of filling the area with 50% gray, rather than just leaving it transparent? Seems like it would be quicker/easier to “undo” areas by erasing than by having to get the 50% gray color re-selected to paint over stuff.

    I should say, though, that I appreciate the first technique because it can be done in GIMP, which lacks adjustment layers and so can’t use your second method.

    I enjoy your blog, keep up the great work.
    –sdc

  3. Ameer says:

    Thanks! Great tutorial! The second (adjustment curve) method is one I’ll probably use for years after trying it today.

  4. Iza says:

    I am wondering, if instead of fading whatever you painted with brush, to reduce the opacity of the brush up front?

  5. jeff says:

    The problem with setting the brush opacity to a low setting is that you can’t change it after you brush it. To make things darker or lighter, you have to set it to a low opacity and then build it up. By painting at 100%, you can quickly fade the brush stroke to the exact density that you desire.

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